February 09, 2013 New York
It's self-evident that Goldin has a forceful intellect; it's the message her clothes are sending that's a little garbled. This collection wasn't incoherent—there was an overarching fierceness to the attitude, and some kind of internal logic was at work. But it was a logic that simply refused to make itself known. In the face of that silence, all you can really do is name winners among the looks. So here goes. Goldin's pleated dresses and skirts were terrific, in particular the ones with panels of leather knit into the pleats. Likewise, coats featuring that horizontal ribbing were consistent highlights, and in fact, outerwear in general was a strength. The three-dimensional intarsia chain knits had a distinctive graphic pop, and Goldin's asymmetry was at its most convincing in short cutaway jackets and laid-back sweaters with a long, overhanging flap. More hits than misses, on the whole. All well and good then, except that Goldin is one of those designers who should be knocking collections out of the park.