March 02, 2013 Paris
This femme fatale likes to stalk around the city of Bilbao wearing a lot of shearling. After featuring the sunny south of Spain for a series of collections, it seemed time for the north to have its turn with Loewe. And it can get quite cold up there. The sheepskin comes in variegated lengths at times—sometimes all at once, as in the first look. This Art Decoish spin on the sheepskin coat, with its graphic patterns inspired by the cityscape, sets both the scene and the feel of this collection. In fact, as in many of Loewe's offerings, feeling played as big a part as seeing today. The tactile nature of the intarsia leather graphic tunics; the embossed leather skirts with a thigh-high split contrasted against a flash of old-fashioned suspender and stocking; the long, shaggy scarlet shearling coat with large, smooth patch pockets that closed the show—each of these garments stood out for its sensuality and tactility.
A tough form of sensuality has become something of a calling card for the Loewe woman, and as a result the collections have gathered momentum not quite seen before she appeared—leather is hardly a ladylike fabrication. The house's creative director, Stuart Vevers, defined this mood after his show. "You have to cut through the classic with something else: sensuality," he explained. "This came in the form of a filmic heroine this season; I felt like I definitely wanted a character. It also came from our work with the actress Penélope Cruz." Having studied her scenes in Pedro Almodóvar films, the narrative flow went on to shape the collection. And why not? The fact that the inspiration was a living, breathing person might be one of the reasons this collection felt so alive.