Some designers are hyper-methodical when it comes to devising a new collection. They've got graph paper and a mechanical pencil in hand; can riff, at length, about arcane inspirations; and have a little dog running around their showroom in a custom version of one of their newest looks. Lindsey Thornburg has always taken a more spontaneous approach to things. She let her dreams guide the design process this season; her dream-catcher-injected video was reportedly a tribute to Carl Jung. The result? Signature tie-dye maxi dresses cut alluringly low in the back, and a flirty velvet baby-doll number that Thornburg said was meant to evoke Madonna back in her Warren Beatty days.

Thornburg's aesthetic is admittedly a little "hippie-dippy," but you can imagine Jemima Kirke's character on Girls wearing these clothes day and night. (Kirke's gone missing on the HBO show, but her fans haven't—if a quick walk through Williamsburg is any indication.) Fall is Thornburg's forte, and her witchy cloaks—an ongoing collaboration with Pendleton—are consistent best sellers. This time around, the heavy wool ponchos had more graphic appeal. One version printed with Technicolor Dia de los Muertos skulls will be a hit with raver kids. Plush alpaca wraps and cozy knits were new developments that felt comparatively sophisticated but still characteristically carefree.