It's one of fashion's most enduring mysteries how designers land upon something en masse. Backstage, Maiyet founder Kristy Caylor and designer Gabriella Zanzani were thinking far-flung, talking about a spiritual trip to the Himalayas. But like so many others this season, Zanzani produced jackets and parkas with bold, rounded shoulders and voluminous sleeves. That synergy will work in this still-young label's favor as it develops its retail network. Another felicitous coincidence: Rich, dense textures have been key on many Fall runways, and Zanzani had a few of her own, most notably the hand-felted wool on the back of a vest, designed to evoke a photo she and Caylor found of snow-dusted mountains.

Certain pieces in this collection could look too much like native costumes. That's partly a function of the show's styling, and partly the result of its business plan—employing local artisans around the world and giving back to their communities in the process. The descriptions of the clothes on the show's line sheet listed where each piece was made: India, Indonesia, Italy, Mongolia, NYC. The clothes here that had the crowd really clicking its camera phones were the ones that looked the most urban—those parkas, for starters, especially the one in olive drab with a fuchsia stripe across its hem, and the dégradé knit sweaters and baggy pants stuffed into knee-high boots.