February 21, 2013 Milan
Once you saw past all the layers—if you could manage it—there were great pieces here. Working with the Bauhaus period as a reference point, the studio came up with bold rugby-stripe parkas and peacoats (navy and buff), as well as a stretchy knit dress and pencil skirt (ocher and brown). More often that not, though, the looks were monochrome, down to the suede running shoes and croc-stamped handbags. Slip into a midnight-blue slouchy cable-knit sweater and matching velvet track pants, and you'd be hard-pressed to slip them off. Other times, the loose-fitting elastic-waist pants in cashmere knit or techno satin felt too much like pajamas. As outerwear makers, tailoring is also in Max Mara's wheelhouse. A few well-cut trousers could've added the element of sharpness that this collection needed.