Marco de Vincenzo had reason to be in an upbeat mood backstage. The designer has acquired a silent partner, he said, and the new situation meant that he could get his hands on fabrics not previously available to him. It made for a much richer collection than his Spring outing.

One of the few young designers to emerge in Milan in the last five years, de Vincenzo has always had a thing for fabrics. Here, he went to town with leather, knife-pleating it into a coat with herringbone lapels and sleeves or a dress with a ruched silk neckline. Those erred a bit on the heavy side. Employing the same techniques on a marble-print silk, he came up with some charming dresses and top-skirt combos. Rome, his hometown, is famous for marble, and he's often tried to reproduce its swirling designs on his clothes. It looked a bit literal as diamonds of duchesse jacquard recessed into overthought jackets made from sheepskin and alpaca. Better were his trim, flared-hem coats, as well as a sweatshirt and pencil skirt, in what looked like felted wool with a stone pattern. Rounding out the collection was some clever ribbed knitwear in brights like lime green and shocking pink. Clever because they brought his pleating idea full circle, and also because they'll be an affordable way for shoppers to buy into his label.