February 19, 2013 London
Less pared down, and better for it, were the prints—motifs meant to suggest falling leaves and, according to the designer, the ubiquity of death in nature. That chilling thought aside, a salt-and-pepper dégradé print on a woven jacquard trouser suit was a winner, and the haunting tree of life print on a billowing gown suggested the de Gournay panoramic wallpaper that adorns the best houses in the world.
Grachvogel is known for prints—those and her seamless, pocketless "Magic Pants"—and over the course of 20 years in business, she's nailed them. What's lacking is a design signature in cut and drape to match. Not that her celebrity clientele is complaining: Muse and friend Yasmin Le Bon sat in front row, as did the pop-ette Mollie King.