March 15, 2013 London
There was a similar charm to this season's Markus Lupfer collection. One of Lupfer's cashmere sweaters was inscribed with the word "Artist," and various of his looks incorporated a brushstroke print, and an anonymous sculpted torso, and sequin embellishment that riffed on Mark Rothko's color-field paintings. This was an affirmation of Art—not any specific artist or school, but Art-in-General. With his tongue planted ever so loosely in cheek, as is his wont, Lupfer celebrated the mere existence of the creative spirit. That theme provided the element of whimsy in what was otherwise a very straightforward collection. Lupfer emphasized silhouettes that were angular and frou-free, and his preferred material this time out was a mirrorlike patent leather. Likewise, his palette ran to crisp black and white, with a touch of blood red and bruise blue thrown in for good measure. There was an unmistakable sense of toughness here—Lupfer's girl may love art, but it seemed she was spoiling for a fight.