"The romanticism and stateliness" that captivated Misha Nonoo during a trip to Russia last fall provided all the visual fodder she required for her latest collection, she said Tuesday afternoon. This season, the designer decided to send her British muse on an adventure, well provisioned with all the costume changes she could desire for a weekend in the Russian countryside.

The theme translated into regimental coats and a palette long on reds. Flared-hem skirts and a little lace dress managed the trick of staying body-aware without veering into body-con. Despite the raccoon shapka hats topping every look, Nonoo's girl was "still very British at her core," said the designer. That was written in the tailoring (particularly one sharp, peplum-backed riding jacket and a Prince of Wales checked fabric used in blazers and trousers) and in the appealing quirk of a magpie intarsia sweater.

This season included the fullest range of knitwear Nonoo has presented so far, and her evening looks have also gained in number since last season. Though the designer could be onto something intriguing with the "white smoke floral" digital print on one organza gown, her girly separates looked like the smarter bets for broader appeal.