February 28, 2013 Paris
Over the last few seasons, Copping has made a concerted effort to expand Nina Ricci's daywear offerings. His special little sweaters have become favorites among those in the know. Here, he riffed on warm-up clothes, layering knits of different gauges one on top of the other, and leaving the ribbon at the nape of a sweater untied as a ballerina would. The portrait neckline of a skirtsuit was draped with extra sleeves, like a sweatshirt tied around the shoulders; another jacket paired high-low style with quilted sweatpants that had a genuinely relaxed feel. Parkas also made their first appearance on the Ricci runway, the best in red wool with opera-coat lines and a fox-fur-trimmed hood.
The evening fare felt more familiar: slipdresses patchworked from silk and lace; slightly askew, asymmetrically draped cocktail numbers. A few other dresses in duchesse satin were nipped and tucked and draped with an offhand virtuosity to create three-dimensional roses in the fabric. Particularly charming was a long black dress with a deep slit in back that revealed its ballerina-pink lining.