Put another one in the win column for Narciso Rodriguez. The designer said a Lygia Clark exhibition at the São Paulo Biennial got him started on his new collection, a second act of sorts to Spring. "I came back and everything in my life was about color and asking how do you mix color in interesting ways, which is sort of a different road for me." He was just getting warmed up last season. Here, he seemed even freer, mixing a cognac coat with a tangerine top and midnight blue pants, or emerald and teal in both matte and shine on a strappy slipdress. Another slipdress, this one above the knee in front and almost to the floor in back, combined black, olive green, navy, and ivory. Oh, to see that at the Oscars. Rodriguez played it loose with silhouette, too; among the most striking looks were a trio of deceptively simple sleeveless trapeze dresses in crepe and duchesse silk, cut on the bias to increase their movement.

Of course, it wouldn't be a Narciso collection without a little rigor. His tailoring is precise, maybe a shade or two closer to the body than last time around. Cutaway jackets came lapel-less, with narrow sleeves, their angular shapes highlighted by the A-line tunics worn underneath them. Pants tapered to above the ankle. A favorite look paired a sleek bustier with those slim, short trousers. His footwear collection is just a year old, but he's a quick study, and his shoes tonight deserve a shout-out, too. Pumps with pointy cap toes, high vamps, higher stiletto heels, and delicate ankle straps, they don't look like anything else on the runways this week. And the same could be said for the rest of this standout show.