Let's start by stating the obvious: This Olympia Le-Tan
collection was more than a little kitsch. How could it not be, with an inspiration like The Sound of Music
? There were lederhosen-inspired looks and belts that said "Schnitzel with Noodles," a callout to a line in the song "My Favorite Things." So, yes, Le-Tan was in a typically whimsical mood this season, and bless her for that. The interesting news here, meanwhile, was the fact that this collection was not all that silly. A woman would not have to possess a well-defined sense of irony to like, and wear, Le-Tan's sharply cut loden coats with embroidered buttons, or her flattering full skirts made from sensuous French jersey. Elsewhere, a Peter Pan-collar dress in a print designed by Le-Tan's father, Pierre Le-Tan, did err on the side of the twee, which was the nature of its charm; likewise, her nipped-waist cardigans were irresistibly sweet. Even the lederhosen-inspired looks were remarkably convincing: A velvet romper, for instance, didn't come off costumey and seemed like perfectly viable partywear for a moderately nervy hipster. (A pair of leather shorts with suspenders and a heart cutout over the bum, meanwhile, would require a more than moderate level of nerviness.) On the whole, this collection was more convincingly realistic than it should have been. It got to you, like that ridiculous movie about a nun who teaches a bunch of children to sing.