February 11, 2013 New York
Elsewhere, the square theme was elaborated in pieces such as a coat gridded in fur, short skirts with pockets that extended from the hip to create a square shape, and looks partially covered in glimmering square paillettes. It was a bit like getting stuck in a chic Tetris game. Even the most diaphanous element here, the collection's watery organza peplums, were in fact squares of fabric, simply draped off the waist. The peplums were especially effective in the evening looks, so too the square paillettes. Evening isn't typically a strong category for Ohne Titel, but their sporty take on dress-up clothes was convincing (although the finale dress might need a bit of adjustment along the hem to make it really wearable). All in all, Adams and Gill deserve credit for taking what might have been an arid and constricting premise, and translating it into a surprisingly rich collection full of accessible, realistic clothes.