March 03, 2013 Paris
And in fact, this is not the first time Paule Ka has crossed the ocean for inspiration (Resort 2013 blew kisses to New York; Spring 2013 was in praise of Palm Beach). But leave the repurposed Americana to that other hip Parisian designer; founder Serge Cajfinger's brand vision has always put polish before edge. Still, you could sense that edge was gaining ground this season, from the loafer-legging-boot in calfskin and stretch suede to the bejeweled beanies. White shirttails persistently poked out of sweaters, and elongated silhouettes (namely, a boxy mid-calf skirt) felt more rebellious than the mini with an underlayer of lace.
Surrealist accessories—the outline of two hands formed into a collar, lip-shaped brooches, and wide-eye hair clips—were all welcome proof that the brand is not taking itself too seriously as it makes a more serious commitment to expanding in the U.S. and Asia. Retailers will gravitate toward items like the fabric-blocked tunic, the graphic swing coat, and the darted dressy sweatshirt in tomato-soup red.
The collection's hero piece was an A-line coat in crackled vinyl that was embellished with a mink collar and silver fox skirt. Both fur pieces are removable, thus creating various permutations, whether you live uptown or down.