The collection's theme was "uptown, downtown," which might initially seem been-there-done-that. In Paris, however, there isn't a geographical equivalent, and the style nuances aren't defined as such. So, really, what we are dealing with here is an American conceit parsed with Parisian flair.

And in fact, this is not the first time Paule Ka has crossed the ocean for inspiration (Resort 2013 blew kisses to New York; Spring 2013 was in praise of Palm Beach). But leave the repurposed Americana to that other hip Parisian designer; founder Serge Cajfinger's brand vision has always put polish before edge. Still, you could sense that edge was gaining ground this season, from the loafer-legging-boot in calfskin and stretch suede to the bejeweled beanies. White shirttails persistently poked out of sweaters, and elongated silhouettes (namely, a boxy mid-calf skirt) felt more rebellious than the mini with an underlayer of lace.

Surrealist accessories—the outline of two hands formed into a collar, lip-shaped brooches, and wide-eye hair clips—were all welcome proof that the brand is not taking itself too seriously as it makes a more serious commitment to expanding in the U.S. and Asia. Retailers will gravitate toward items like the fabric-blocked tunic, the graphic swing coat, and the darted dressy sweatshirt in tomato-soup red.

The collection's hero piece was an A-line coat in crackled vinyl that was embellished with a mink collar and silver fox skirt. Both fur pieces are removable, thus creating various permutations, whether you live uptown or down.