March 02, 2013 Paris
Why go to the trouble, when other designers would be content to do a print, and customers might not be savvy enough to tell the difference? Lourenço is the first to admit he's a bit technology-obsessed. Technique counts for a lot with him, too. Here, a bolero and pencil skirt made of wrinkle-proof Japanese organza "feathers" struck a somewhat over-the-top note, but overall his handwork was subtle. That meant that smart tailoring—for example, a velvet pantsuit built for comfort with a silk crepe back—could come to the fore. Pleats have become a hot topic this season, and Lourenço's were charming, especially in striped moiré. This was a savvy step forward for the young Brazilian.