Pringle of Scotland produced its last catwalk show a year ago, and shortly thereafter announced that it was parting ways with its design director and refocusing creative direction of the brand on making updated versions of its signature cashmeres, twinsets, and argyles. Now that some time has passed, it's possible to measure the scope of Pringle's downsized ambitions. This collection found the brand threading a very fine needle. The clothes Pringle presented today were certainly well-executed and, in close-up ways, compelling, but they weren't statement-making or "editorial." Nor were they pretending to be—the looks were very clean, with a mod accent and some graphic pop, but the action was all in the detail. Much as you'd expect, the standout pieces here made innovative use of knit: One hands-down winner was the snow-white gilet, with a thick, ottoman knit rib; other nice garments included the tonal cream argyle sweater woven like a jacquard, and the fuzzy black rollneck sweater in a tiered fur stitch. The effects were understated, but these pieces did repay scrutiny, and they felt luxe.

Meanwhile, the most daring ensemble paired tailored trousers in a pixilated argyle jacquard with layered sweaters in versions of the same pattern; the cushiony rollneck sweater on top had the pattern printed on, rather than knit in, which was interesting. All in all, there were lots of excellent small ideas in this collection, and you could easily imagine them being extrapolated into propositions worthy of a catwalk. But Pringle of Scotland just isn't playing that game anymore.