Street-style photography may be everywhere these days, but it's not actually a new phenomenon. Back in the eighties, for instance, Amy Arbus had a column in The Village Voice
in which she catalogued the wild fashions of downtown's club-kid demimonde; perhaps her most famous photograph is of a pre-fame Madonna standing primly on the sidewalk in flats and a giant overcoat. Those Arbus shots were one of the inspirations for Peter Som
this season. Of course, Som gave his club-kid decadence a good, slick coat of polish, prettifying the look for his uptown clientele, but a decent quantity of the original spirit remained intact. The prints here did much of the heavy lifting—one standout look, for instance, was a draped dress that fused a few of Som's hallucinogenic prints in hues of rust, turquoise, brown, and orange; elsewhere he paired a trippy check in the same colors with a massive, mottled-blue fur that looked like it was on pills (in a good way). Som also made good use of leopard-print ponyskin and glitter. The sharpest look here, though, was a bit of an outlier—a tuxedo-vest tunic shown over skinny, short pants. You couldn't really imagine that ensemble wandering down Avenue A in the eighties, unless it had arrived there by accident, but you could easily visualize those pieces going almost anywhere else.