It's hard to use fishnet without it looking trashy. Yet for Fall, Reem Acra managed to incorporate the material into nearly every look without once turning down a sordid path. Acra was inspired by a recent trip to Japan—"I fell in love with it," she said backstage—as well as the work of photographer Daido Moriyama. His close-ups of women in fishnet stockings had clearly left an impression on the designer.

Traditional Japanese embroidery inspired the intricate red floral handwork on several dresses and gowns, along with a black cashmere bomber jacket featuring red and white floral appliqués. The designer used fishnet several different ways. There was a fishnet-print silk sheath dress (cut beautifully on a bias), fishnet-print pumps, and a red crepe gown overlaid with black fishnet. Daywear is bigger than ever for Acra, and it seems like she's really getting the hang of it. It was difficult not to imagine a modern Hitchcock heroine in her "Princess of Wales" check wool dress, high-neck quilted evening coat, and seamed black nylons.

Acra's aesthetic is nothing if not glamorous, and she amped up the glitz with a red and ombré goat-hair coat and plenty of beaded gowns in a restrained palette of black, white, and red. There were more than a few Oscar-worthy stunners, including an ivory column dress with black floral embroidery and a black bugle bead gown paired with—what else?—fishnet gloves.