Raquel Allegra is growing up. The queen of Californian deconstruction, she of the scythed oversize tees and infinite varieties of tie-dye, has developed an appetite for tailoring. Quelle surprise! To be sure, the tailoring in Allegra's new collection was soft and slouchy, with the exception of a few stretchy leather pieces. (Her long-sleeve black leather dress may in fact be the Platonic ideal of that garment.) But there was a specificity to her cuts that felt new—you could see it in the sharp shoulder and elegant back vent on a gray blazer of tie-dyed silk, and it was evident in the hip-slung insouciance of a pair of stonewashed rayon wide-leg trousers.

Elsewhere, Allegra's news was color, as she augmented her typical palette of neutrals with some punchy looks in an abstract floral print, and others in tie-dyed orange and blue silk. The designer's bamboo pieces were more boldly graphic this season as well. As usual, a casual sensibility prevailed, and, of course, her signature deconstruction remained very much in evidence. But overall, this collection found Allegra pushing her distinctive aesthetic in a more refined direction.