February 17, 2013 London
New for him were biker details, from a jacket in orange leather all the way to subtle references like the diagonal zip on a sleeveless shift, or the draped lapel on a cocoon of ice-blue silk. Nicoll also used patterns from nature for the first time: A croc-stamped jean jacket paired with baggy "denim" pants, or a croc-stamped angora sweater paired with a skirt in dove-gray patent leather both offered a relaxed take on luxury. So did Saga furs intarsia-ed into herringbone patterns (more of that polymorphous glamour).
If confidence has sometimes been a distracting issue for Nicoll in the past, his new collection had the subtle swagger of a focused designer who knew he'd done good. And it offered further proof that if Nicoll starts with himself (anyone who saw his recent appearance in cult trans mag Candy will know just how great he'd look in the orange organza dress with which closed the show), he can't go wrong.