Despite what you may have thought after last season's flirty dresses, floral prints, and pastels, the Rebecca Taylor woman is not a girly girl—or so the designer claims. Citing David Bowie as a constant source of inspiration ("I'm a diehard fan," she said), Taylor wanted Fall '13 to be tomboyish and androgynous with a seventies Brit punk edge. There was no mistaking her inspiration when the first look—a great twill biker jacket with a black wool kilt and buckled boots—hit the runway. And while Taylor's kilts and cargo pants—all of which were garnished with flapping pseudo suspenders—were a bit too literal, other pieces, like puckered gray or plum knit sweatshirts with bejeweled collars, a midnight military coat with quilted leather lapels, chain-mail tops, and shredded socklets made to look like run stockings, were playful interpretations of her theme.

Taylor paid a lot of attention to textures this season. For instance, there were tactile frayed tweeds (which worked best as flouncy little skirts), mesh lace accents, and a few silk blouses that were studded with regimented beads. Structure was also a focus—darts and pleats abounded on A-line dresses and a few peplum tops, while oversize vests and tailored coats were sharply sculpted. And, although Taylor saw her Fall rebel as a Debbie Harry disciple who likes to wear her boyfriend's biker jacket, she couldn't resist a few ultra-feminine touches. For instance, a "camel rose" hue (kind of a subdued peach) softened up a geometric jacket with quilted leather sleeves, and a stencil rose print blossomed on a maxi skirt and short-sleeved dress. So maybe Taylor's Fall woman is a little bit girly. But she balances the "pretty" with some killer "tough girl" pieces. And it works for her.