March 04, 2013 Paris
Take the trench. She broke it down to its elements and fused parts to different garments. A navy velvet dress got an olive-drab cape back and collar, while a navy sweater acquired epaulets and a welted belt. As for those plaid hunting suits, they were spliced with technical nylon or fur, the hems of the jackets becoming peplums above flared pants. The après-ski section delivered the most news. Cozy sweaters with zebra patterns below a deep line of feather fringe looked fresh for Abe, and a pair of down puffers edged with fox were flashier than usual for her. They'll be hits.
The leather Perfecto pieces, married to double-breasted coats or a long velvet trapeze dress, recalled one of Junya Watanabe's most beloved collections. Watanabe, of course, was once her boss, so this felt more like a heartfelt homage than pilfering. She picked up the fine art of sampling from him, anyway. All around, fabulous.