March 22, 2013
Designer Saloni Lodha lives in Mumbai. But she launched her brand in London, back when she was something of a local It girl, and in the years since, she has developed its aesthetic into an adroit mix of her Eastern and Western influences. Lodha's silhouettes are rather straightforward, with an emphasis on flirty jacquard and printed jersey skirts and dresses. But as this collection affirmed, the real interest in her clothes is the surface embellishment. Here, for instance, she transformed an otherwise anodyne organza cocktail dress by covering it in color-blocked Indian cord work. Elsewhere, she created camo-like patterns on a short dress and baseball jacket, using dense thread embroidery. Those were the most interesting pieces in the collection, but there were lots of attractive looks here as well. In particular, Lodha's stained-glass print gave a kaleidoscopic kick to her relatable little dresses. She also did well with her outerwear, which was both a new category for her this season and, as she explained when presenting the collection, an especially challenging one. "When you live in Mumbai," she noted, "it can be hard to remember that there are places where it's not always hot."