Goth opulence has a new high priestess in Sally LaPointe. The young designer showed a collection fusing eighties references with a shadowy palette and intricate construction. It all started with "In Your Room," the Depeche Mode song. "Everyone can identify with or have an emotion towards that song," LaPointe said backstage before the show. "It's very dark and sultry and reflective."

So were the clothes. LaPointe toyed with the meeting of modesty and exposure from the very first look: a black croc-paneled dress and trouser combo that covered the model completely, down to her gloved hands—until she turned a corner and revealed a bare back. Skater dresses also pulled off the trick of revealing while concealing, with their streamlined leg-of-mutton sleeves and sharp, sexy waist cutouts. These were designs that made you lean in that little bit closer. This was LaPointe's first season using crocodile skin (apparently her first Bergdorf's drop is selling well). The material was used notably at the end, on a heavily embellished dress with matte seed beads and sequins slithering into predatorlike scales. LaPointe already has a dream wearer in mind: Rihanna. What would loyal client Lady Gaga say to that? "Gaga would say, 'Give me that dress!' " LaPointe said. She won't be alone in that.