Apropos of Milan's wet snow, Sportmax
sent out a strong collection this morning, one in which inventive outerwear led the way. Take the show opener, a brown beaver cocoon coat that was shorn into a cuboid, grid-like pattern, with contrast black lapels—even in a season in which fur has been everywhere, this one stood out for its graphic, super-modern feel. Other coats—in marled tweed, in caramel astrakhan with suede storm flaps, in tone-on-tone eel-skin stripes—followed the same ovoid lines. We've seen a lot of skirtsuits in Milan. It's a silhouette that can easily read "old lady," but the Sportmax team kept the look fresh and young by giving the skirts airy A-line cuts—some with slits, others pleated with sheer panels. There was plenty of legroom in carrot-shaped trousers, too. Most of the time, the pants were paired with chunky knits. Fuzzy angora sweaters in black and white checks or stripes promised the best of both worlds: practicality and a serious fashion punch.
The clothes had a tactile quality, be it the short fringe of a silk fil coupe belted long-sleeve dress or the quilted leather of a sweatshirt-and-pencil-skirt combination. The felt diamonds appliquéd on a tulle shift felt like decoration for decoration's sake, but otherwise this show had a simple, winning immediacy. Well done.