February 19, 2013 London
There were other changes, too. This season, the designer shied away from the aggressive volumes that gave her last collection so much punch, and replaced them with more understated silhouettes. The sculpting here ran more to gestures, like the fan of broad pleats on the front or back of a fitted skirt, or the waterfall of fabric draped off the hip of a dress. And though Rocha hasn't lost her taste for odd, almost icky materials, she jettisoned most of last season's plastic textures in favor of fuzzy faux fur and tinsel-dappled mohair. The effect was cozier, but still eccentric. Intriguingly, some of Rocha's best looks found her working with that old staple, wool: Her cropped pants were terrific, and the boxy black jacket and matching pleat-fronted miniskirt proved that the Rocha point of view holds even when the clothes are shorn of bells and whistles. It will be impossible for young London not to love a look like the yellow faux-fur sheath—the sort of thing that made you wonder if Net-a-Porter delivers to Sesame Street—but it was the simplest stuff on the runway today that made you believe in Rocha's longevity. She knows how to pull back as well as explode.