St. John's darkly glamorous Fall presentation indicated that Senior Vice President of Design Greg Myler has now found his footing. "Sometimes people don't equate St. John
with sexiness, but our customer definitely can be," said Myler, who brought out that side of her this season by updating the house's signature knits. Myler worked sleek, vaguely seventies silhouettes in a range of vivid "Scorsese colors," as he termed them. A floor-scraping, double-breasted cashmere coat in a deep military green was paired with a tie-neck silk blouse and boot-cut trousers, for example; and a teal cape gown cut from liquid satin made a bold yet sophisticated eveningwear statement. Even the collection's bread-and-butter Milano basics stood out here thanks to playful styling. Case in point, a navy knit tunic shown over ultra-slim lace pants, finished with a luxe red fox fur collar and leopard booties. That look in particular felt elegant but fresh, and suggested a promising new chapter for St. John.