February 17, 2013 London
With such obsessional material on offer, Byrds, the name of designer Alice Temperley's Fall collection, promised much as a paean to Hedren. Never as conventional as Grace Kelly—who could perhaps be seen to personify, in To Catch a Thief, much of last season's Temperley London offering—the darkness in Hedren and the parts she played underlie her carefully put-together look. This was exactly what the designer Alice Temperley was going for: "Savvy, dangerous, dreamy," as she said backstage after her show.
For Fall, the clarity, precision, and lightness to be found in the clothing of last season was still there, in large part, with some beautifully realized garments. Particularly the daywear, for which a certain strictness was added to the proceedings in the shape of trapeze-line dresses and swing coats in structured Italian jacquards or British wools—some of the standout looks of the collection. The strengths of the offering were in those early sixties shapes and the commissioning of great fabrics—something Alice Temperley always approaches from scratch and prides herself in. The collection fell a little flat in the more contemporary trouser and jacket looks, which did not pack nearly as much punch, and the eveningwear that eschewed the strictness and discipline established in the earlier part of the show.