The wavelengths of fashion are an enduring mystery—how and why do designers latch on to similar ideas at the same time? Let's just blame Milan's water supply, because Manuela Arcari and Consuelo Castiglioni are clearly drinking from the same tap. Like Marni's, the Ter et Bantine
collection blended menswear influences and fur details to some effect in today's show. The stole, the collaged patches of mink, the feathered alpaca coat…they all reflected a Marni something or other. And Arcari's re-conceptualized pinstripes had a similarly severe but sensual edge. A coatdress was almost monkish. But when she attached a sweater to pants for a trompe l'oeil jumpsuit, there was an appealing logic at work. In fact, it may have been that logic that set this label apart in Milan. Witness the long patchworked suede skirt paired with a cropped sweater. Simple but substantial, it managed a difficult balancing act: drama without overt sex appeal.