In its infancy, Thakoon Addition was about prints—day versions of the printed dresses that designer Thakoon Panichgul had made his mark with at his more expensive line. As Addition has grown, so too has its raison d'être. These days, it's a much bigger collection, and it's also more focused on tailoring. Menswear influences are everywhere in his strong Fall offering, but he's finessed them. "Classics, but twisted" is the way he described his approach to pieces like a supersized motorcycle jacket with leather quilting, a sweater with striped shirting fabric on the back, and a trench jacket cut from silk supple enough that he tucked it into an asymmetrical-hem pencil skirt.

For a guy whose first claim to fame was coquettish cocktail dresses, he's become remarkably adept at the whole androgynous thing. The boxy cut of a paisley jacquard T-shirt, the slouch of his double-pleated trousers—they feel very now. Panichgul also has an eye for clever outerwear, not just the navy-blue puffer poncho and a sweater jacket with a built-in leather wallet for a chest pocket, but also simpler fare, like a men's coat in gray plaid with a removable fur collar and a wool parka with leather details.