"It's based on an 'If I murdered my husband, this is the suit I'd wear to court' kind of thing," said Tocca designer Emma Fletcher at the brand's presentation. It took no great leap to imagine the reformed Roxie Hart shimmying into Tocca's black silk dress with inset diamonds of burnout velvet. Or perhaps she'd prefer the "Who, me?" ensemble of a lingerie pink silk cami spliced with French lace, shown tucked into a blush pink, calf-length A-line skirt with matching blazer.

On the more modern side was a lambskin leather dress with a fishnetlike panel over the chest that came from the Carlo Mollino photographs Fletcher's been looking at, and some silky spaghetti-strapped slips of dresses. But best of all were the cover-ups. Coats, including a double-breasted herringbone number with leather-trimmed chevron pockets and a more formal black princess-seamed option, looked substantial enough to weather the current and any future storms. The overall effect was consistently Tocca: more vintage than pioneering, but just the sort of reserved yet seductive clothes that many women love to wear.