Fall 2013 Ready-to-Wear
March 19, 2013 New York
Tome may be a new kid on the fashion block, but the brand's designers, Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin, aren't exactly novices. Lobo is a well-known stylist back in the duo's native Australia, while Martin's previous gig was design director at Derek Lam. They've been thinking about launching a label together for the past fifteen years. All that experience shows: This collection was marked by the confidence and clarity of its point of view. Inspired by Georgia O'Keeffe, Lobo and Martin turned out a number of pieces that hewed to the monastic look of O'Keeffe's own wardrobe and used a fair amount of felted wool, suede, and shearling suggestive of desert tones and textures. In general, the reference was kept light. But Lobo and Martin got something important from O'Keeffe, which was the collection's monumentality—a muted gold gown, for instance, was emphatically spare but got a lot of power from its graceful, fluid volume. Likewise, a sharp coat in felted wool was a standout, thanks to its vast, sculptural lapels. Not everything here was quite so operatic—you could cherry-pick more than a few accessible, understated pieces from the collection. But even garments like a pair of slim, striped trousers, or a tunic-length white shirt, reflected the emphatically unfussy vibe of the whole. That's a sign of maturity in designers. Lobo and Martin did well to bide their time.