March 02, 2013
Neatly timed to fashion week as well as the brand's 20th anniversary, Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof have opened their first boutique in Paris, located on a side street off rue Saint-Honoré. They opted to show their Fall collection here, noting that the clean, well-appointed space motivated the designs. In both store and style, there were standouts, namely the notion of a cement "parquet" floor and then a grouping of dresses that paired a faintly printed red cashmere tulip skirt with a netted sequin top. The designers sourced the latter material from Jakob Schlaepfer in Switzerland and explained via a quick chemistry interlude that the sequins had been woven onto a fabric, which was then treated with a solution to dissolve the material, leaving only a loose grid of spangles. There were 24 looks in total, most of them aspiring to that red-carpet golden ratio of glamour, allover sparkle, and body-skimming silhouette. For novelty's sake, the designers added a flared panel to one hip. This asymmetry proved too much for a two-tone lamé gown—half copper, half turquoise. Bon courage to the starlet who tempts that fate. "Sometimes the red carpet can be the enemy of fashion," said Talbot. Maybe. At least the store allows them to control their own image. Their next goal: to ease up on the sequins.