Umit Benan has had a couple of challenging seasons at Trussardi after his promising Spring '12 debut. Today he found his mojo: This outing was his strongest yet for the house. It's not that he's changed his formula, per se; Benan has been reinterpreting his popular menswear for women from the start at Trussardi. But this one was more keyed in to the way we really dress. None of the stuffy mistakes or the strange colors of his Spring show. Instead, the clothes had a relaxed confidence, and an inventiveness to boot. The double-breasted brown coat he closed the show with (one of a handful of well-cut outerwear pieces) turned to reveal a navy ponyhair inset on the back above a white leather martingale. Trussardi being a leather goods brand, there were lots of skins here. A leather pantsuit can be a tricky proposition, but Benan made convincing work of his; same goes for a chalk leather biker with a matching V-neck tee and pleated skirt. Only a leather dress with knit sleeves looked off—the proportions of the shoulders were wrong.

But slip-ups like that were few and far between in this 24-look collection. A windowpane plaid that he cut into a button-down and trousers then draped into a dress showed Benan's growing versatility as a womenswear designer. Should he and the Trussardis decide to part ways, as has been strongly rumored in Milan this week, that shouldn't detract from the solid achievement of this outing.