Where to next for a California contemporary brand keen to signal that it's all grown up? Lincoln Center, for a start. For this, Trina Turk's first time participating in New York fashion week, she mined the design legacy of California modern. The result was a more textured collection that moved away from the Palm Springs poolwear of previous seasons. "It's a conscious decision to upgrade," Turk said. "We're taking ourselves a little more seriously and felt this was worthy of being shown on a larger scale."

Looks came long, lean, and seventies-inflected, as in a banded satin column dress that united navy, auburn, mustard, and pink in its broad stripes. Prints are one of Turk's fortes, and other patterns and colors—particularly the geometric Embarcadero print jersey dress and the collaged tweed print—delivered a desert-y, southwestern feel. There were touches of the truly rich, in the form of off-black dyed furs (a curly lamb coat with rabbit sleeves in plum and navy, and a pine green lamb gilet) and an alpaca and melton wool coat. Sweaters with zigzag and chevron intarsias also looked sharp. It was a well-layered collection that might mystify some Turk devotees with its relative dearth of dresses—but surprises can be a good thing.