Undercover's Jun Takahashi was back on the Paris runway tonight after a long absence, and the industry's power players turned out to see what the Japanese designer has been up to. When last we saw him on the catwalk two years ago, Takahashi was playing it straight: denim jeans, camel coats, marinière sweaters. As straight as he gets, anyway. That wasn't the case tonight. For his big comeback—and it was a big moment—Takahashi dreamed up something more like punk performance art, with a wink in the direction of Vivienne Westwood, his first fashion influence and a designer much in the spotlight these days thanks to the Costume Institute's upcoming punk show. (An underground book Takahashi co-created showcasing Westwood and Malcolm McLaren's Let It Rock, Sex, and Seditionaries clothing fetches four figures on the Internet these days.)

To start things off, Takahashi showed a trio of colorful rain slickers with grommeted eyeballs and appliquéd lips, the models wearing papier-mâché bunny masks and T-strap pumps trimmed with ponytails of blond hair at the heels. After a spin down the runway, they peeled off the raincoats to reveal trenches hacked off at the hips and built up with exaggerated double collars and shoulders. Body parts became a refrain: Skeletal hands clasped the waist of one model's tooled leather belt, and rib cages turned up almost everywhere, most cleverly as tone-on-tone lace insets on the back of button-downs. Little dresses were constructed from men's white shirt collars, like so many starchy ruffles, while sleeveless evening jackets were pile-ons of vintage lingerie—one each in peachy pink, red, and black. As each group of three or four models made their way out from behind the white curtain, the crowd clicked away on camera phones. Here was something really worth sharing on Instagram or whatever. It was cheering to remake Takahashi's acquaintance. Let's hope he's back again next season.