Russia is verrry cold. Valentin Yudashkin wants you to know that. And because the Russian designer experiences this cold firsthand, it allowed him to interpret it in a myriad of ways: spirit, look, fabric, llama-hair stiletto boots…The white earring puffs resembled snowballs. Cutouts on a leather dress evoked paper snowflakes. You might get a chill just looking at the silver shards shooting forth from the shoulders of the final evening gown.

While that gown was the most ornamented look of the collection, the rest was hardly restrained. There were at least three different furs on one fit-and-flare coat, and the lapels of a well-cut suit had been elongated like sharp icicles. It helped that Yudashkin restricted himself to an icy palette, never venturing beyond sand or winter sky. In fact, the strongest moments of the collection occurred when he turned cold into cool. All the mini party frocks, whether bejeweled or covered in a metallic cubist brocade, felt more relevant when topped with a slouchy men's blazer or shaggy llama cape.