There have been a lot of tough looks on the runway this season—clothes with a discernible don't-mess-with-me attitude. Wendy Nichol
wasn't immune to the trend, but her new collection put a different spin on intimidation. There was a sexy Wiccan vibe at work, one not far removed from the bohemian vibe Nichol has conjured in the past, but with a decidedly fiercer mien. The notable development was the body-consciousness of Nichol's clothes; the designer introduced new pencil-skirt, legging, and bra-top shapes, all made from soft plonge leather. Elsewhere, her more diaphanous silhouettes elaborated on looks from last season, as did the characteristically refined outerwear. Details were telling—hieroglyphic embroidery added an idiosyncratic element here and there, while the daggered paneling on several pieces underscored the witchy tone that was most overt in a slipdress of dip-dyed French lace and an Empire-waist coat in velvet. Nichol also came up with a few intriguing styling pieces, including removable fringed epaulets and fingerless leather gloves with snaps. All in all, the vision here was eccentric. But—pun intended—it cast a spell.