"Everything is so overexposed now, everything moves so fast," Maria Cornejo said, "it's about capturing the moment and slowing it down." You didn't have to know what Cornejo was thinking, let alone agree with her, to find things to like about her Fall collection: raw-looking shearlings, an evening jumpsuit with a hint of sheer shine, a monochrome red outfit consisting of a cocoon coat, a silk dress, and suede booties. The relentlessness of the fashion cycle can be tough on brands of Cornejo's size. Without money for big-time advertising, she depends on word of mouth. For her that's the easy part; she's got a devoted fan base.

"Slow and steady wins the race" sums up her approach this season. Leather is a growth market for Maria; in addition to colorful new versions of her stretch leggings and pencil skirts, she showed edgy leather ski pants, baggy all the way to the snap closure at the ankle-high hem. Texture, one of this week's buzzwords, was a talking point here, too. The lacquered black basketweave material she used for evening looks shone like moonlight hitting water. A little bolero cut from the stuff added a touch of flash to a washed silk jumpsuit. The success of her photo prints—abstracted versions of personal iPhone pics—persuaded Cornejo to turn them into jacquards. Gray and black for the minimal types in her crowd, and a gorgeous red and black for the extroverts. As for the silk prints, a pixelated image of people marching neatly evoked her slow-fashion theme. Time may not be on your side, but Cornejo is. A red and black jacquard coat is reversible and rainproof, to boot.