For Zadig & Voltaire's first-ever runway show, artistic director Cecilia Bönström selected David Bowie as the collection's muse. Except she avoided the Ziggy Stardust era, opting instead for a more general, stylized androgyny. That Bönström even had Bowie on the brain was fortuitous in light of his first (unexpected) album release in ten years and upcoming retrospective at London's Victoria and Albert Museum. And go figure, she has been with the brand (founded by Thierry Gillier) for exactly that long.

But no amount of coincidence or reference matters when it comes to the customer and whether she will be seduced into buying versions of sweaters and denim she likely already owns. Which is why Bönström was smart this season to move into more novelty pieces: skinny leather overalls, even skinnier suits in red velvet, frosted necktie silks, gold jacquard jackets, and shaggy faux-fur coats. The jackets introduced a sharper, stronger silhouette, especially for a line that has built its identity on the art of layering knitwear. Together with coated metallic jeans, they represented uncharted territory for Zadig & Voltaire: Balmain on a budget.

A wolf leaped across a tube top (take note: wolves are the new skulls) and eagle wings outstretched across knickers. Deep purple velvet underpinnings and jacquard boots designed in collaboration with Laurence Dacade pushed the rock vibe even further toward rococo. It was fun to watch Bönström let out her wild side.