January 09, 2014 London
"I wanted to combine London youth culture of skinheads and mods with an elegant, sophisticated French aesthetic," Thomas said. "My guiding lights were fabric, cut, and fit." To prove his point, Thomas created a luxurious double-face cashmere cargo jacket—effectively kicking the ordinary khaki parka to the curb. The "jean" jacket was not denim at all, but a butter-soft calfskin, while a slightly menacing "donkey jacket" had bonded leather in the back. "The donkey jacket," Thomas explained, "used to be worn by garbage men—the leather was to protect their coat when they slung the garbage bags around their shoulders." A Prince of Wales checked suit had skewed patterns, adding interest to an otherwise classic pattern. Shorter pant lengths, meanwhile, were evocative of the Thatcher-era skinheads. The collection's standout piece was a wool bomber jacket with the subtle buffalo check.