When told that a collection's spirit is "a bit anarchist," the natural reaction is to chuckle, not only because anarchists never do anything halfway, but also because they don't really lay claim to a style. Still, a razor-blade motif, a ferocious grizzly bear, and a steampunk heart were enough to convince that this latest show from McQ had not lost its, ahem, edge.

As is often the case, the most provocative pieces were the least explosive. A traditional buffalo check had been reformatted so that its squares appeared distorted. Flocked shirts with a trompe l’oeil bleached effect deserve to be the unofficial successor to burnout tees. Illustrator Fergus Purcell turned the McQ letters into two eyes and a nose, added a smile shaped like a scar, and voilà—a weirdly original happy face. Above all, the collection benefited from a simple styling formula: oversize tops over slim pants, their cuffs rolled high enough to expose boots with treads as exaggerated as fangs. McQ may be unapologetically street-inspired, but the quilted leather puffa, tailored camel Crombie, and shaggy shearling-lined coat were reminders that this is a label that has craftsmanship coursing through its veins. There wasn't much about this lineup that was threatening; but who's to say that's not a compliment?