Moncler Gamme Bleu
January 12, 2014 Milan
Browne is a master of taking a theme and worrying it down to every last detail, so the argyle here came in every imaginable fabrication, from sequined to woven to knit, and on one ethereal garment from which sheer diamonds fluttered like butterflies. It's hard to accuse him of not dotting every i and crossing every t. But for whatever reason, the collection didn't have the force of revelation the situation might have warranted. It might be that, for a designer whose menswear flirts at the border of womenswear (and whose womenswear flirts at the border of men's), bringing the sexes together just makes literal a point he's already spent seasons suggesting. For an ecstasy of head-slapping weirdness, you had to turn instead to the soundtrack, which alternated string music with snippets of Shakespeare. The reader of such tony source material turned out to be none other than the torpedo-breasted "working man's Monroe" of the 1950s, Jayne Mansfield. That tidbit prompted the reaction the collections seem to court: What? Wow!