Fall 2014 Menswear
January 07, 2014 London
Connoisseurs of 18th-century engravings know the rake as a dissolute, drink-addled immoralist, but it would be hard to find a man more removed from such a ne'er-do-well sort than the hale crew who ambled down Rake the label's catwalk. Creative director Clive Darby claimed he had Robert Redford in mind, in 1969's Downhill Racer, one of his golden-boy movie moments—though that particular role didn't really seem like much of a model for this collection. Maybe the turtlenecks and the shearling would have passed muster in Redford's wardrobe. Otherwise, his character's ski-sleekness was replaced by sturdy layering in shades of earth and stone: tweed over plaid, jacket over substantial knitwear or even another jacket. In keeping with the movie's setting, Darby tried on a halfhearted Tyrolean slant with some hats and kniebundhosen (below-the-knee lederhosen). A cute incongruity, given that Rake is one of the standard-bearers for the "new" Savile Row. The real focus was on an unstuffed sartorialism: Single-buttoned jackets were tailored almost bum-freezingly short, ties took a backseat to turtlenecks (or nothing at all), a pintucked denim shirt was an evening option. If there was a casualness to the proportions, it suited the chunkiness of the collection. Beards and beefy masculinity shared the catwalk with the usual cheekbones and jawlines.