January 30, 2014 London
Things got even better when Ford dialed down the volume, as in a down-filled taupe blazer and a bone-toned mac (aestheticized, he claimed, with a process that removes the characteristic rubbery aroma). But the most telling addition to Ford's newly casual Fall repertoire may well have been trainers. He called them "tennis shoes." Said he'd been resisting them forever, or at least "until I could figure out how to make them distinctive." The secret? They are produced using the hand-polishing technique that is applied to Ford's dress shoes: three days per pair, to yield a lustrous aged-in-wood effect.
Such obsessive attention to detail has always been Ford's calling card. When the item merits the attention, the result can be stunning. And so it was with Fall's eveningwear. Anyone needing their color fix could find it in lustrous silk jacquard jackets, in exotic ikats, or in textures so lush they could almost have been dévoré. And there was still color elsewhere in the collection: a zing of chartreuse slipped into a pile of cashmere sweaters, a tasty selection of spice tones in amid the urban charcoal.