Vivienne Westwood's cause du jour is fracking. Her always-polemical show notes read (in full): "Attention: Fracking is the Big Fight. In England we must all challenge the irresponsible behavior of our governments who are trying to force fracking upon us with no consideration of alternatives. The public must be informed. One thing is sure: At this point in time we must think before we rush into further action to fracture our earth."

Tracing a connection between cause and collection is a touchy business. Fracking tends to pit the environmentalists against the oil barons, so it probably wasn't too far a stretch to see a reference to petroleum in the models' black-spackled hair—and maybe not even to go one step further and suggest that the darker palette, with more black than usual, picked up the theme, too. Ironic or not, all that black made this collection look more wearable than some of Westwood's acid-toned outings. But take it too far at your peril. There were the usual wild three-button suits and tailored coats, but the collection was positively thick with duvet coats, big sweaters, sweats, and tracksuits. Many were more provocative than your average trackies (in gold lamé or see-through mesh, for example), but they nonetheless telegraphed a kind of kick-around comfort and ease. Which would have made the show's message something along the lines of: Relax. But Westwood doesn't do that, and, God bless her, she likely never will.