March 10, 2014 Paris
This season, Maison Kitsuné's collections for men and women had a particularly American patois, in that the reference was, generally, mid-century rock 'n' roll. There was a bit of mod olde England in the mix, as well, especially so in the menswear's lean, double-breasted velvet suits. But the general vibe was more heartland than that, what with looks like a suede bomber with a contrasting black goat-hair collar and a dense flannel-check jacket with sharp, angled pockets. The kids at the sock hop never looked so refined. But they were present in spirit. The women's collection erred—as French brands often do—toward the gamine: to wit, the pale blue coat with velvet trim, which looked up-sized from Bonpoint. But there was nothing underage about this season's extra-skinny denim, and pieces like a zigzag alpaca sweater gave things a pop of early eighties, Mudd Club electricity.
As a general matter, Maison Kitsuné's clothes for women are less accomplished than the ones for men—there's less specificity, in either the details or the look as a whole. But in both collections there are desirable items, perfected in that finicky Japanese way, and expressing that untouchable French cool.