The unexpected inspiration behind Adam Lippes
' Fall collection was the Grateful Dead. As a self-proclaimed Dead Head, the designer has seen the legendary jam band live over fifteen times, and views them as quintessentially all-American. This tied in nicely with his signature refined take on classic sportswear. Lucky for Lippes' sophisticated customers, who would likely turn their noses up at the idea of hemp necklaces and festival tees, he treaded lightly with the theme. A heavy georgette shirtdress was tie-dyed with a windowpane check pattern that was more graphic than psychedelic, for example. Elsewhere, Lippes riffed on the idea of bandannas with cowl-neck blouses that came in crisp men's shirting fabrics, and he whipped up luxe intarsia cardigans and cashmere ponchos. The designer elevated bohemian fringe on satin gowns featuring silk tassel accents, and showed a pleated maxi skirt cut from delicate black Chantilly lace. Traditional outerwear styles including toggle coats and moto-inspired toppers were reinterpreted in rich materials like double-face satin and cozy, bottle-green shearling. Overall, Lippes succeeded with this mature lineup that was full of playful twists.