Sandwiched between so many collections billing themselves as that most nebulous of things, "edgy," an offering like ADEAM
's New York runway debut runs the risk of feeling quaint in its primness. And yet, even with her hyper-feminine forms, designer Hanako Maeda carried off a collection both ladylike and relevant. Perhaps that was thanks in part to her Nobel Prize-winning inspiration, Yasunari Kawabata's 1935 novel Snow Country
. While Maeda drew on both the male and female protagonists (a dilettante writer and a geisha), clearly it was the latter that won out in the end. The palette leaned heavily on delicate powder pink and icy dove gray; there were plenty of floaty yet structured party frocks. A custom brocade with a camellia print was particularly pretty, and things got a bit more femme fatale with a fitted black number that had an asymmetrical silver fox trim. Nods to the Western men's-tailoring craze that had swept Japan by the thirties were relatively surreptitious, and should please the woman who doesn't typically go for androgynous designs.