Runway images inevitably won't do the craftsmanship of Alexandre Herchcovitch
's latest outing justice. The veteran Brazilian designer has been plugging along with collections at varying levels of eccentricity for many a year now, but for Fall he went back in time. Backstage before his show, Herchcovitch spoke about looking to vintage camisoles and other underthings for inspiration. That wasn't the only throwback, though; where construction was concerned, he unearthed specific techniques of embroidery and lace crocheting that boggled the mind in their couture-like precison. The latter, handled by "little old ladies" in the north of Brazil, was particularly showstopping; one dress (Look 29) took roughly three months to create. A wearable and romantic prairie-gothic vibe was the order of the day, with plenty of Victorian flourishes, like jackets with sweeping, slashed muttonchop sleeves. Elsewhere, cashmere jersey camisoles trimmed in tiny crystals were worn half-on over scalloped embroidered button-downs. Amid a sea of peach, cream, tawny brown, and black, three stunning looks in sculpted scarlet and fuchsia wool were a reminder that Herchcovitch sure knows his tailoring. And perhaps most importantly, nearly every piece felt truly special.
For some, the dreamy nostalgia and skivvy-inspired ensembles will be a bit much for everyday wear, but here's hoping that Fall's offering finally earns Herchcovitch greater mainstream recognition stateside. After this collection, he deserves it.